How to Pot a Plant

Today, lots of Australians live in urban areas in reasonably large houses on shrinking plots of land. Once it was a quarter acre block, but now due to the increase in population and the economy that same area may have as many as four dwellings on it!

That scenario doesn't allow much room for gardening, especially when the outdoor room, a pool or hot tub and maybe a children's play area are factored in!

More and more of us are turning to gardening in space-saving pots and planter boxes.

This form of gardening can be very therapeutic and rewarding thanks to premium potting mixes, a wide range of plants bred specifically for pot culture and terrific pots, bowls, baskets and tubs designed not only to be functional but decorative as well.

The secret to its success is in knowing how to pot plants so they'll perform well.

What you need: 

Get organized by collecting everything you'll need before you start!

Work on a clean bench or table and have an old bucket on hand to collect old potting mix, which you can spread on the garden or add to the compost bin later.

• Garden gloves - ALWAYS use gloves when handling potting mixes or soils.
• One or more bags of premium or superior potting mix - choose the one that's best for the plants you are potting up
• Clean pot/s of suitable size and proportion
• Hand trowel
• Fibreglass flywire or similar sized durable mesh
• Scissors or secateurs to cut mesh and trim roots
• Watering can
• A Premium Liquid Concentrate (optional)

 

Lets get started:

This step by step guide can be followed or adapted for pots of all sizes, including hanging baskets and large planters and boxes. It can also be used for planting vertical wall gardens.


1. Use potting mix straight from the bag - don't contaminate it with old mix by tipping it out on to the potting bench. Close the bag tightly after use.

2. Cut a single layer of flywire (or other mesh) slightly larger than the base of the pot and position it over the drainage holes.

3. Add 30-40mm of the fresh mix into the base of the pot. You can re-use an old pot but make sure it has been thoroughly washed to remove all traces of old mix, roots and fertiliser salts.

4. Holding your hand over the top of the mix in which the plant is currently growing, up end the pot and tap the rim on a bench to loosen and remove it. Gently loosen ('tease') the root ball without disturbing roots too much and remove any damaged, dried or twisted roots.

5. Place the root ball in the centre of the new pot (if potting up individually) or position it where you want it grow in a larger container that will eventually hold several plants.

6. Check that it's sitting at about the same level as it was in the previous pot. If it is too low (plant is sitting deeper than it was previously), lift it out and add more mix to the bottom of the pot. Repeat until the plant is at the right level.

7. Fill the pot with potting mix to within 20-30mm of the top rim of the pot, working the mix in and around the plant's roots.

8. Tap the pot or container gently on the bench to settle the new mix and remove any air pockets around the roots. Do not pack it down too firmly.

Best plants for creating a hedge

Hedges provide a neat solution to many garden design problems, weaving magic as a privacy screen, windbreak or dividing wall.

Hedges not only look stately, they're also the best way to add privacy to your garden. Of course not all hedging plants were created equal, so it's wise to spend some time choosing the best species for your project. Consider the height you want, what suits your climate, growth rate, and attributes such as flowers, fruit, density, foliage color and hardiness.

 5 of the best plant species for Hedges

 1. Sasanqua camellia

Autumn-flowering sasanqua camellias have plenty to offer. The large, abundant blooms are available in every shade of pink, plus white and red, set against lustrous dark green foliage. Their naturally upright growth makes them ideal for hedges from 1.5m to 5m tall; use a dwarf variety for small hedges. They're not the fastest growers and are low maintenance as a result. They like rich, slightly acidic soil and sun to part shade.

2. Sweet viburnum

Sweet viburnum is much loved for its lush, large, bright-green leaves and super-speedy growth. But be warned, you'll need to clip it constantly in summer to keep it neat. A vigorous grower, it's best for 3-4m tall hedges. Look for the more compact form 'Dense Fence' or try Viburnum suspensum, which is a smaller variety.

3. Japanese box

Box is the classic formal hedge and for most parts of Australia, Japanese box is the best variety. It has glossy, green foliage with lime-green new growth and a moderate growth rate. In cold areas, use English box (Buxus sempervirens), which is darker, matt green and slower growing. Use box for short hedges up to 1m tall or in parterre designs. 'Faulkner' is an excellent compact variety of Japanese box. Plant three or four per metre.

4. Cascade lilly pilly

There are dozens of different lilly pillies but many are prone to pest problems. My pick is 'Cascade', not just for its robust performance and fast growth, but for its fat, pink powderpuff flowers in summer, its flushes of pink to crimson new growth and its masses of crimson berry fruit, which is suitable for jams and jellies. It has a gently weeping style of growing – lovely for an informal hedge or shaped into a topiary ball – and reaches about 3m tall in sun or part shade.

5. Murraya

Sometimes called orange jessamine, murraya has become one of our most popular hedges for all the right reasons. The glossy green leaves are small and dense, with perfumed white flowers as a bonus. Murraya grows quickly, in sun or part shade and in most soils, and resists most pests and diseases. Old hedges can be rejuvenated by hard pruning if needed. It's suitable for hedges from 1.5 to 4m tall.

Lawn Varieties in Australia

The type of grass picked for a lawn is an important decision to make, especially when considering the fact that different lawn types behave differently in certain weather conditions, and react differently to various levels of traffic and use.

These are the more common types of lawn grasses in Australia, and what differentiates them.

Kikuyu

Taking its name from the most populous ethnic group in Kenya (this grass’s native country), Kikuyu
grass is generally regarded as one of the more “vigorous” grasses, and also the most economical lawn. It loves a warmer climate, and thrives in full sun which makes it perfect for Australian homes; the downside of this is that it grows poorly in shady or poorly lit areas. It will regenerate quickly if worn out, which is why it’s often used for schools and sports fields.
The main problem with Kikuyu grass is that its fast-growing nature means that it can become invasive, requiring frequent mowing through the warmer parts of the year. Care must be taken to stop it from escaping the confines of your lawn and spreading to other parts of your home’s yard, or even crossing over to a neighbors yard.

 

 

 

Buffalo

Infamous for being incredibly irritating and scratchy, Buffalo grass has, over the last few years, come
into its own as a popular choice for lawns with the advent of “Soft Leaf Buffalo” grass types. These grasses, such as Sir Walter and Matilda Buffalo, can make for incredibly lush and soft lawns if maintained correctly. However that being said, an attractive feature of Buffalo grass is the fact that it’s rather durable, and easy to grow and maintain.
Buffalo grass does well in both summer and winter, and is adept at handling the extremes brought by all times of year. It also has self-repairing qualities, making it ideal for high-traffic situations such as a family yard. 

 

 

 

Couch 

A consistently popular grass with a number of popular sub-types (Queensland Blue, Santa Ana etc.),
Couch grass is an easy-going and cheaper grass which can make for a great-looking lawn when treated correctly. It holds up against wear and tear, and is capable of repairing itself rather quickly due to its vigorous underground runners. However these runners can also cause problems in regards to creeping into other non-lawn areas, so the areas adjacent to any Couch grass should be monitored carefully in order to avoid this.
Couch grass will stay relatively vibrant in all seasons, however care should be taken in warmer months to mow it regularly, and to fertilize and nourish it in colder months. Otherwise it may become patchy and unsightly.

 

 

 

Zoysia

A less popular grass in Australia historically speaking, Zoysia grass is starting to gain recognition as a viable and even attractive option for Australian lawns. It’s known for being incredibly soft, with no chance of irritating or scratching the skin. It also grows incredibly slowly, making it attractive for those who aren’t a huge fan of mowing. Slow growth also means that managing potential invasion of surrounding garden beds is made much easier.
Zoysia is an incredibly tough variety of grass, ideal for sports fields and schools. However its slow-growing nature means that if it does become damaged, it will take longer than other grasses to repair itself. Zoysia does well in all seasons; however it’s slightly more susceptible to browning if drought conditions arrive, and as mentioned previously, will recover much slower than other grasses.

 

 

 

Tall Fescue

Tall Fescue is a popular choice for “instant lawns”, which are when pre-grown grass is rolled out on top of soil or pre-existing grass. It’s an incredibly indiscriminate type of grass, being equally happy in
sun or shade, and being able to adapt to a wide range of soil conditions and climates. And the cherry on top is the fact that Tall Fescue has no runners, which means that it can’t invade surrounding garden beds or your neighbour’s yard.
Tall Fescue can cope with moderate levels of traffic, being relatively hardy and durable. However it’s not quite as durable as other grasses on this list, such as Zoysia and Kikuyu.

 

 

 

Hybrid Bermuda

Hybrid Bermuda grass are very fine in textures. While the improved common Bermuda varieties are good for lawns, the hybrid Bermuda grasses are popular for their sheer quality. The hybrid varieties are also insect and disease resistant. The sodded varieties are mainly created out of Hybrid Bermuda grass. They are dense and used to create lush green fine textured stretches. At lower heights, the hybrids need an extra care and maintenance to grow well.
Hybrid Bermuda grass also needs frequent fertilization and over-seeding management techniques with accurate irrigation and drying procedures.






When it comes down to it, you should pick a grass type based on what will work best with your yard. Take the levels of traffic and sunlight into account first, as they are arguably the most important factors to consider when deciding. 

Water Restrictions for Sydney

As you may or may not have known, more than 85% of greater Sydney's water supply relies on rain. And as of now with the little amounts of rain received this year, our water supply is very limited.

Currently in Sydney, the Blue Mountains and the Illawara level 1 water restrictions are in place. These restrictions apply to everyone in these area's, both in residential and commercial establishments.

If we all do our bit and save a little, together we'll make a big difference.

What's allowed under Level 1 water restrictions and when can i water my lawn?

You can water your lawns & gardens:

• Before 10am or after 4pm using a hand-held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle. 
• Between 10am and 4pm using a watering can or bucket.
• Anytime with drip irrigation systems.
• Anytime with watering systems featuring; automated weather adjustment, rain sensor or soil moisture sensor. 

You can water new turf:

• 1-2 times a day before 10am and after 4pm for one week after its delivered, as long as you follow the instructions provided by the turf supplier.
• Using sprinklers (including soaker hoses) and watering systems ONLY if the newly turfed area is 70m2 or greater, for this one week period.

You cannot:

• Use sprinkler and soaker hoses after the one week establishment period, unless you have a exemption permit (email sydneywater regarding an exemption)

Removing Bindi from your lawn

Bindi is a prickly, painful, annoying weed but now is the time to stop it in its tracks!
It forms during winter and is a low growing weed with carrot-type leaves. Other than patches of winter grass, it’s usually the only other bright green part of a patch of lawn in July.
Come spring, it produces a single flower that matures to form a prickly seed pod with three spines. Once dried, in summer, this seed pod can splinter or puncture bike or pram wheels and is very painful on bare feet.


Conditions promoting Bindi growth

During winter, the growth habit of your lawn is not as lush and thick as it is during other seasons, therefore weeds will find it easier to penetrate.


Prevention is always better than cure so during winter try to grow a bit of extra length into your lawn and ensure the soil doesn’t become too compacted. Aerating with a garden fork is one way of elevating compaction.
Poorly nourished lawns also tend to be taken over by weeds such as Bindi. But don’t feed the lawn once the Bindi appears as this will only promote growth.
As Bindi is a low growing weed, mowing will not remove the problem. The seeds and flowers of Bindi can remain safely under the grass – well below the mowing height. The trick is to raise the height of the mower during winter to avoid scalping the lawn, which opens the lawn up to weed invasion.
So, in short, having a well maintained and nourished lawn helps prevent the onslaught of weeds during winter.

Controlling Bindi

The best time to remove Bind ii is late winter or early spring.
If you have a small lawn area, then hand removal is the best option. However, it is important to make sure you remove the plant along with its roots. If the Bindi has set seeds than hand removal is more difficult. Pouring boiling water on a small lawn area to control infestation is another option.
If the lawn area is too large to control by hand, then a selective herbicide can be purchased from a Nursery or Garden Centre. Make sure you first read the label to ensure it is suitable for the type of lawn you have.
If the Bindi is already flowering than it is too late to apply a herbicide so a product such as Bindi & Clover Weeder should be applied. This can also be purchased from a Nursery or Garden Centre.
Another option is to use Iron Sulphate to control or kill the Bindi. You need 2 tablespoons of Iron Sulphate in 4.5 litres of water. Spray the mixture onto the Bindi affected areas. Iron Sulphate can be purchased from a Nursery or Garden Centre.

Most importantly though, eradicate now to avoid the real pain in summer.

Spring is back! ..things you can do now

Most of the lawn grasses we grow in Australia are warm season varieties that don't do well over winter. Chances are your lawn’s looking a bit worse for wear leading into spring.

Browning is typical, as is thinning. This will have the flow-on effect of making any bare patches look worse than they actually are.

On the positive side, your lawn is about to bust back into lush, green life.

Things to do:

• Rake vigorously to not only clear fallen leaves and twigs but more importantly; to strip out dead and brown grass ("thatch") to allow more light through to new shoots.

• Fertilize. This is the critical time of year to give your lawn a balanced, slow release feed. Fertilizing now provides the nutrients to reinvigorate the lawn so it can power into summer. If you only fertilize once a year, do it in Spring!

• Watch watering. This can be a tricky time of year for watering. The soil hasn’t warmed and nights may still be cool, so a deep watering may last for longer than expected. Burrow your finger down into the lawn. If it’s damp, don't water.

• Mowing. Now’s the time to get your mower serviced and the blades sharpened or changed. If you’ve been mowing with a catcher over winter, switch to mulch mowing now.

• Weed watch. Weeds are coming to life too! Fertilizing the lawn to thicken it up will help keep weeds at bay. Very sparse areas are the most likely to become infested with weeds. If they are already obvious, use Scotts Lawn Builder + WeedKill (instead of All Purpose). Just ensure your lawn type is suitable because weed and feed products are often unsuitable for Buffalo and other wide blade grasses.
  
  Note: ALWAYS read the label to ensure it’s suitable for your lawn type.